Just one day here, and it feels so good I can hardly believe it. So soft, after Mérida. Gentle, blurred edges. Beauty saturating the landscape. There is not one straight line of a street in this place, it’s a grand labyrinth. Steep streets with sudden look-outs—a city spread across mountains, twinkling, reaching halfway to the stars. Doors opening onto hidden alleys, comfortably, casually, spilling scents and scenes of home out onto the pavement. Narrow, twisting cobblestone streets, Spanish lanterns, sidewalk cafes. Muted rainbow colored buildings, gentle sun. Bougainvillea. Bounty spilling from every shop door…

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